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Router - DLINK 320B: Difference between revisions
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<indicator name="Front">[[File:Menu-B10D.svg|link=:Category:AA_Routers|30px|Back up to the A&A Routers Page]]</indicator>
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[[Image:DLink-DSL-320B-Z1-front-view-v2.jpg | frameless | right |
At the time of writing, December 2017, the currently shipping hardware version of the DLink DSL-320B is the DSL-320B-Z1. Confusingly in the past DLInk described several completely different modems as “DSL-320B”. The following sections describe the DSL-320B-Z1.
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▲[[Image:DLink-DSL-320B-Z1-front-view.jpg | frameless | right | 400px | alt Dlink DSL-320B-Z1 modem]]
== Resetting to factory settings ==▼
To reset the modem, locate the reset button hole on the rear panel of the unit. With the modem powered on, use a paperclip to hold the button down for 10 seconds. Release the button and the modem will go through its reboot process.▼
Wait about 30 seconds to access the router. The default IPv4 address for the modem’s http admin user interface on the LAN is 192.168.1.1/24. Your own IPv4 address will need to be in the same subnet and different from that of the modem ie set to something in the range 192.168.1.2 - .254. You can then log in to the web admin interface using a web browser, at <nowiki>http://192.168.1.1</nowiki>, username=admin, password=admin.▼
==Notes==
*AAISP ships these devices for use as straight ethernet modems. Although they are capable of working as (buggy) routers, AA pre-configures them to work in bridge mode only, that is, in simple PPPoE modem-only mode, not operating as routers.
*If you reset them to factory settings using the pin-in-hole technique, then with their factory defaults they <b>will not work at all</b> as straight PPPoE ethernet modems. Their configuration <b>must</b> be altered before use. Ask [https://www.aaisp.net.uk/support.html AA support] for help with this or see [[#post-factory-reset|post-factory reset configuration]] instructions below.
*No per-user or per-line login or password configuration is required. ISP account or line login and password info is configured in your <i>router</i>, the DLink modem doesn’t need these values.
*They do support 1500 MTU (unlike the [[Router - ZyXEL_P660R-D1]]).
''Performance tip for long lines:'' If you have an extremely long phone line (>60 dB downstream attenuation) and you can use ADSL2+, it is worthwhile experimenting with setting the DSL mode/standard option to ‘ADSL 2’ (only) in the above list of options, that is, taking ADSL2+ out of the list of allowed standards, as opposed to allowing the modem to use ADSL2+, to see if this restriction gives a performance improvement. It will be a long process to get a meaningful comparison with take many restarts and many tests to confirm any possible performance difference between allowing and disallowing ADSL2+. If in any doubt enable ADSL2+ ie ADSL1/ADSL2/ADSL2+ ‘auto’ mode where the modem will use ADSL2+ (which can support much higher best-case speeds than ADSL2) if the exchange DSLAM or MSAN supports ADSL2+ too.
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After any reset to factory settings you will need to make the following change using the web admin user interface in order to get the device to work properly as a straight modem. (Factory default http://192.168.1.1, your own ip address set to something suitable in that same /24 subnet, username=admin, password=admin.)</p>
‘SETUP’ (top horizontal navigation bar) > Bridge Mode
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<li>1483 Bridged IP <b>LLC</b>.
Following this you will then also need to make the configuration changes described in the previous section.
▲== Resetting to factory settings ==
▲To reset the modem to factory settings, locate the reset button hole on the rear panel of the unit. With the modem powered on, use a paperclip to hold the button down for 10 seconds. Release the button and the modem will go through its reboot process.
▲Wait about 30 seconds to access the
== Images ==
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